[KOSHER REVIEW] Sen Sakana in New York

The result is a restaurant that is not only one of Manhattan’s finest kosher eateries but also one of the city’s best Nikkei spots as well. Nikkei cuisine is the fusion of Japanese and Peruvian food that began just over one hundred years ago when Japanese immigrants imparted some of their techniques on the local cuisine in the Peruvian capital of Lima.

Executive Chef Mina Newman is of Peruvian descent and spent time there to learn more about the cuisine so she could do it justice back in New York. Though she had been victorious on an episode of the Food Network’s Chopped, the challenge of sourcing kosher ingredients to make Nikkei food proved to be a different level of difficulty. 

“Our supervision allows us to import certain ingredients from the Chabad of Osaka,” said Newman about her logistical accomplishment. “Shiso, yuzu, and bonito flakes are some of the things we use to craft the specific tastes of Sen Sakana.”

When I was invited to sample the delicacies of Sen Sakana, I was impressed by the depth of the menu. Most high-end places don’t cover as much ground as Sen Sakana does, but I was glad to have so many options. The wider selection allows for a more in-depth look at a cuisine some patrons might not be familiar with.

Many people will start their meal here with sushi. There are seats at the sushi bar and omakase service if that’s something you’re interested in. While this is certainly a valid route given the quality of the product, if you only have one night here, I’d advise mixing sushi with the rest of the menu for a more representative experience. If you’re looking to pick one roll, try the Spicy, Smokey, and Crunchie. Filled with a trio of avocado, cucumber, and asparagus and topped with torched salmon, spicy mayo, jalapeño, and masago, this roll has a little bit of everything. The flavors, textures, and heat all come together in what might be the best roll of sushi I’ve ever had.

For a more traditionally Nikkei raw fish order, you must get ceviche. There’s more than one type on the menu, but I suggest the Ceviche Nikkei. Almost certainly the most famous food in its genre, ceviche is raw fish marinated in a leche de tigre (a mixture of citrus juice and seasonings). This version uses torched salmon and yuzu (a Japanese citrus fruit) served with shiso (Japanese mint) and cancha (crispy peruvian corn). The result is a strong acidic punch that brings out the flavor of the salmon amidst the many varying textures.

While you can probably find ceviche in some other kosher restaurants, the same probably can’t be said for the BBQ Chilean Sea Bass Okonomiyaki. This Japanese street food is a pancake that’s topped with cabbage and scallions before being sprinkled with katsu (the Japanese equivalent to BBQ sauce), bonito flakes, and pickled ginger. I know, you might be reading these ingredients in confusion, but there’s a reason this is so popular on the other side of the world. It might take a brave eater, but the reward might just be the best bite of your night.

While the bites at Sen Sakana are great on their own, the restaurant also sports a full bar and happy hour specials. As you might expect, the bar imports an impressive selection of offerings that pair with the food. They have signature cocktails, a sake menu, beers from both Japan and Peru, and a wide variety of spirits that might interest you as well.

For your main course, you can’t go wrong with the Lomo Saltado. The ingredients are familiar: beef, tomatoes, onions, and potatoes. You’ll get the mixture after it’s been stir-fried with garlic and soy sauce. If you can’t tolerate really spicy food, you might want to just eat what you have right there. And, don’t get me wrong, it’s still really good. But you can also put the stir fry atop the side of white rice and mix in the aji amarillo sauce. It’s probably hotter than anything on the menu at your standard kosher restaurant, but it’s amazing. Aji amarillo is made from yellow hot peppers and brings a specific flavor along with some serious heat. If you think it’s up your alley, go for it.

Looking for a more mild entrée? The Quinoa Crusted Chicken Breast comes topped with an aji amarillo tartar sauce, but the creaminess allows you to get the flavor without the heat. The super crunchy filet is served with a Japanese sweet and sour sauce and a purple potato salad. This might be a good option if you’re trying to find something on the menu that you know you’ll like. The components are expertly assembled into something you probably haven’t had before, but you can likely figure out if it’s your speed.