Update (2/25/11): 24-yr-old Israeli, Ofir Mizrachi, is reported to have been killed when masonry fell on the car in which he was travelling with three other Israelis. 12 other Israeli nationals are still reportedly missing after the recent earthquake.

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This is very sad news coming from New Zealand which just suffered a major 6.3 magnitude earthquake, killing dozens, and destroying much of the city. A young, unnamed Israeli backpacker from Hadera was killed in the quake.

The Chabad of New Zealand has posted to all in Christchurch:
IF YOU ARE IN THE EARTHQUAKE ZONE PLEASE HEAD TO LATIMAR SQUARE WHERE THE CHABAD AND THE ISRAELI EMBASSY ARE SETTING UP AN EMERGENCY MEETING CENTRE

Original Article can be found on: www.algemeiner.com Author: Maxine Dovere

Two and a half months ago, when Rabbi Shmuel Friedman arrived at Chabad of Canterbury to join Co- Directors Rabbi Menachem Goldstein and Sara Goldstein to bring Yiddishkeit to the Jewish community and the twenty thousand Israeli “backpackers“ arriving in the South Islands annually, he could hardly have anticipated being part of an such a momentous earth moving event.

The earth did, indeed, move.

Christchurch, New Zealand, the country’s second largest city, suffered a 6.5 level earth quake which shattered and toppled buildings, destroyed city infrastructure, and caused many deaths. This temblor followed a September event which despite its 7.4 rating was less destructive. In this latest event, 65 are reported dead, many are injured and (as of Tuesday night, New Zealand time) at least 100 remained trapped in the rubble of collapsed buildings. Among those killed is a young Israeli traveler, reportedly from the city of Hadera. His name has not been released.

Prime Minister John Key called the city “a scene of utter devastation,” saying “We may well be witnessing New Zealand’s darkest day.” The 6.3-magnitude quake which shook New Zealand’s South Island has caused extensive damage. The sea, too, has been affected: more than 30 million tons of ice broke away from the Tasman Glacier, New Zealand’s biggest.

Chabad is working in cooperation with the members of Canterbury Hebrew Congregation to attend to the needs of the community. For the second time, t he building housing the Chabad Center has tumbled. An emergency center has been established in Latimar Square, a center city park. Calls are being made to alert travelers to stay away from the city and to call parents and report their safety.

Chabad is “a home away from home” commented Goldstein, Chabad’s New Zealand Co Director, and shliach in New Zealand for four years. “The timing is somewhat miraculous,” he continued, “There were over 100 guests for Shabbat. Only three people were in the center at the moment of the quake and all are safe.” Efforts immediately turned to finding and accounting for the thousands of young Israelis in New Zealand. (One, as noted, was killed by falling rubble. The car in which he was traveling was hit.)

Contact information and personal details were gathered and presented to the Israeli Embassy in Wellington. With the airport shut down, Shemi Tzur, Israel’s Ambassador to New Zealand, has been unable to travel to the site of the disaster by air, but is scheduled to arrive by car. He has asked Israeli travelers to leave the city. The Foreign Ministry estimates that 120-150 Israeli travelers were in Christchurch at the time of the quake, and is working to contact them.

“In the aftermath of the quake,” Goldstein told the Algemeiner, “a number of Israeli backpackers, many of them recently active IDF members, ran into collapsing buildings to help with the rescue efforts. They have saved many lives, incurring minor injuries in the process.”

In New York, a spokesman for the Israeli government conveyed to the Algemeiner that Foreign Minister Avigdor Lieberman had spoken with his New Zealand’s Foreign Minister Murray McCully and expressed Israel’s condolences to the people of New Zealand and offered to send aid to the devastated city. As authorities continued to assess the city’s needs, Israel, said the spokesman “stands ready to assist.” Support in the form of supplies and equipment has been proffered. Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu has instructed that efforts be made to see how Israel can “help local authorities in rescue missions and help Israelis.” ZAKA has also offered its services.

The community shul, the “Canterbury Hebrew Congregation has, according to its vice president, sustained an undetermined amount of damage. No other deaths or serious injuries are reported. “People are in shock but coping.” “Many parents are calling and are on the internet trying to locate their children. Over 100 backpackers have emailed the Chabad website which is carrying an alert instructing people to contact parents immediately,” according to Goldstein.

All members of a delegation of 43 American government, business and community leaders in Christchurch for a United States New Zealand Partnership Forum meeting is believed to be safe.. Nine U.S. Congressmen attending the meeting were reported to have left the city before the quake struck.

Rabbi Goldstein urges that “everyone to pray for the victims of this terrible tragedy, many of whom remain trapped in the rubble.”

Contributed by: Anonymous Couple from Connecticut, USA | Last Date of Travel: January 2011

» The following is an account from a frum Jewish couple’s recent trip to this resort. We value their privacy as they preferred to remain anonymous, but found their feedback and insights very helpful on this program and resort.

Having just returned from this trip, I can tell you what was missing from this program.

Firstly, the good: which is meager. The grounds are very nice, and the beach is beautiful. The hotel complex is the Celuisma Resort on Playa Dorado.

The resort is horrible. The only thing worse than the hotel is the service. The hotel management will smile at you, but do absolutely nothing when you need their help. We asked for towels five times, and were told that guests were limited to one towel per person! Our shower had mold on the ceiling, and the hot water did not work throughout most of the complex. The friends with whom we went with had no blanket on the day we arrived, and after being assured personally by everyone that they would get it, it never arrived at all! Imagine an entire vacation without having a blanket on your bed?

The Kosher tour operators (i.e. the owners and managers of the King Solomon Kosher program) have a great deal to learn, and unfortunately, practiced on the guests the week we were there. The food was at best “so – so”, and was always late. There is no one in charge, and guests can’t ever get responses about what is going on, or where to get answers. Their attitude seems to be, “you get what you pay for.”

So if you want a poorly run program with mediocre food, horrible service, and a property badly in need of renovation, but all you want is beach and don’t care about the rest, than this place is for you. Otherwise, stay home.

Kosher Food: Breakfasts are buffet with the usual fare, lots of plates of veggies, lox, eggs, etc. The one caveat is how amazing the bread was. Whoever is baking that stuff is awesome! If you can just live off of bread, you may be in luck here! (And another little treat was israeli butter from Tnuva)

Shabbat was a disaster, but not like Saturday night when the food was really late and a fight broke out. Breakfast was ok, lunch was awful and dinner was passable. The three owners don’t seem to care much; they just keep repeating something like you get what you pay for. We happened to be there with a huge Sephardic crowd, so there was no Ashkenazic davening and on the first night, no mechitza so the women stood in the hallway.

All in all, the food was unhealthy and substandard. The hotel was unresponsive, unprepared, and needs to be updated. I would suggest that they purchase some towels, too. If you do decide to go, bring Clorox, towels, and a pillow. On the upside, there is plenty of free soda, bottom shelf alcohol, and sugary drinks.

Notes: The program moved about a month ago. The King Solomon Kosher Resort is a program, not a location. They had been in one location, and told us they moved about a month ago to a better location. Playa Dorado, where they now are, is a gated area with several resorts. The American Casino is in the enclosure.

The hotel is just not equipped to handle as many people with special needs (i.e. kosher and Shabbat observant). For example, they ran out of hot water, Friday afternoon. It is because the hotel is not equipped to have hundreds of people taking hot showers at the same time. Most hotels probably are not. After Shabbat, things get back to normal, and there is hot water. They are very nice, however, they make promises they do not keep. As for the food, it was not amazing, but if you are not fussy, it was fine, and plentiful.

Avoid buildings 11 and 12. Ask for Building 19, which was recently renovated.

In summation: “You get what you pay for.”
Overall, this program was a disaster; the people behaved badly, the promoters behaved badly… I’d rather eat salad and tuna fish at a non-kosher resort then do that again.

I can tell you that a lot of people were upset. Most were upset, mainly with the hotel itself than the kosher program, but those guys (Kosher program organizer) need to get it together. They claim that they are going to try to improve for their Passover program. In the end, it’s all about expectations. Phenomenal? No. Good enough? I am sure there were several who felt that way.

NOTE: As of late January 2011, the local Chabad has dropped their hashgacha from this program.

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Where: King Solomon Kosher Resort
Playa Dorada
Puerto Plata, DR
www.kingsolomonkosherresort.com

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It’s that time of year, when Orthodox Jewish families take vacation when their kids in yeshivas are off from school (that ranges between the last couple weeks of January through mid-February [including Presidents Week - third Monday in Feb]).

The decision to (or not to) go to the locations I mention below will depend on whether or not you want to be with swarms of other families on vacation, willing to wait on long lines at Kosher eateries (assuming they exist where you go), or want a more secluded vacationing experience.

Here are the top 5 spots that American Orthodox Jews tend to vacation, en masse, during this time period each year (in no particular order):

• Orlando, FL
  Between all the Disney parks, Universal Studios, Sea World, other entertainment options, loads of hotel options – including numerous kosher vacation rentals, as well as a handful of kosher eatery options, the Orlando / Kissimmee Florida area has become a popular destination for many frum families during Yeshiva Week.



• The Poconos, PA
  There are numerous hotels, ski resorts, and bed & breakfasts that cater to the influx of Jewish families during this time. The many ski ready lodges are a major attraction for families with kids and teens who want to be active on the vacation. Popular ski slopes include Camelback Mountain, Shawnee Mountain, Jack Frost Mountain, and a bunch of others.
• Miami, FL
  Miami is a place that Orthodox Jews love, especially the New Yorkers, for both the winter and Pesach. Between the warm weather, plethora of Kosher restaurants and beautiful scenery, no wonder the “Jewish Snowbirds” fly down for winter. Just keep in mind that the restaurants will be packed, and waiting times can exceed to way over an hour at some.

• Los Angeles, CA
  Another favorite “Jewish Snowbird” locale, LA has great weather and an even larger selection of Kosher restaurants than Miami. This is not as popular an option for the many East Coast-ers seeking warmth, but enough will swarm the streets of Pico Blvd. this time of year that many locals will notice … and probably flee to Mexico themselves.

• Vail, CO
  For the kids whose families head to Vail, you are the envy of your classmates. A winter vacation, actually celebrating winter by skiing, snowboarding, and being active in the beautiful Rocky Mountains of Colorado. Don’t think Chabad hasn’t noticed. They’ve set up shop in Vail for just this purpose.

Contributed by: Ruchie Schwartz | Last Date of Travel: January 2011

Kosher Info:
I just recently returned from a 6-day trip to Nassau, in the Bahamas, which included Shabbat, and was glad I came prepared. As far as I know, the Bahamas does not have a Jewish population and therefore does not cater to the Kosher lifestyle. Prior to the trip, my friend and I researched whether or not there was a Chabad around and found there was not. As far as we know, there are no kosher restaurants. We brought most of our food with us and got a refrigerator in the room at least until the end of Shabbat so we were able to have deli sandwiches.

There was a big supermarket there named Citymarket that carried loads of American – and therefore kosher – products. We didn’t rely solely on this place, but it came in handy. We brought dry cereal with us and were able to purchase kosher milk here. We also got some fruit and water. In theory, we could have purchased more, but the prices prevented us from even looking. To give you an idea, a box of cereal there was around $7. We were surprised at the variety of products that were available to us, such as pre-packaged pastries, but were not eager to buy them at those prices.

There are some Starbucks around and there was a Ben & Jerry’s in Atlantis, but I don’t know of any actual restaurants with kosher food.

Tourist Info:
There are a bunch of islands of the Bahamas, but tourists are mostly on Nassau or Paradise Island, which holds the Atlantis. Everything you’d want to see is pretty accessible by either bus, taxi, or ferry.

The Atlantis is definitely something to see. It’s a giant resort with a water park, casino, shopping… and host to a lot of celebrities. Although I didn’t have any encounters, people we ran into kept telling us about the famous people they saw there. It often houses big poker tournaments, too, which took place during our visit. Visiting Atlantis could be really pricey, but most people think it’s worth it.

This being a Caribbean Island, most of the great activities are water-based. There are several dolphin swims and plenty of opportunities to scuba dive and snorkel. Hotels are loaded with brochures on these activities, and if not, people that run some of these will find you on the beach. As far as nightlife goes, Senor Frog’s is a wild place that’s worth checking out and as far as we could tell, a lot of the alcohol seemed to be what we have in the US. I would still recommend asking to see what’s used in the drink to make sure it’s kosher.

Jewish Info:
If there is a Jewish presence in the Bahamas, I didn’t know about it. Being female, I didn’t bother researching shuls or minyanim, but they may exist. If the goal of your vacation is to learn about that country’s rich Jewish history, this is not the place for you. If you’re looking for a nice get-away, some beautiful beaches, and fun, this is the place.

Note: There is a tiny Jewish community and shul in Freeport, which is on a different Bahamian island from Nassau.

Contributed By: Daniel Wunder | Last Date of Travel: November 2010

Kosher Info: In Mumbai (formerly Bombay), there are actually a number of Jewish communities with a rich Jewish history, but very few Shomer Shabbat, Shomer Kashrut Jews remaining.  The Chabad of Mumbai is well known as a means of getting kosher food.  They’re the only publicized game in town.  They have a restaurant which serves food every night at 8PM and provide options for kosher meals on Shabbat.  I personally did NOT spend Shabbat with them, but I was able to arrange for my hotel (The Westin, Goregaon East) to pick up food from them, double wrapped, and heat it up for me.  The Chabad charged a lot of money for this service and the food was awful.

If you’re looking for good food and a much more authentic Indian Jewish experience in Mumbai, I recommend visiting the Magen David synagogue for Shabbat (or the whole week).  The hotel (Sasoon hotel) is very inexpensive (about $25 per night.)  It’s not very fancy, but the rooms have, a television, bed, private bathroom and shower.  Really… no frills, but the people there were very nice, they provide kosher food for dinner every night (free of charge) and the rooms are nice enough. 

The Sasoon hotel can be found at: The Magen David Synagogue Compound, 340, Sir J. J. Road, Byculla, Mumbai (near J. J. Hospital).  Reservations can be made by calling: 23006626 or 98200 78032.  There is a Chabad Rabbi there as well who is in charge of meals and kashrut, his name is Eliran.  He’s extremely pleasant, well mannered and very approachable. 

Other than that, there are no other “kosher restaurants” in Mumbai.  Having said that, Hindus and Indians in general are very strict about veg/non-veg, so most of the Jewish locals (even most of the Shomer Shabbat, Shomer Kashrut Indian Jews) eat at restaurants that are pure vegetarian and just don’t order dishes with cheese.  As a matter of fact, some hotels that serve veg and non-veg even have separate kitchens with strict usage and cleansing of utensils.  For instance, the ITC Grand Central, has separate kitchens and sterilizes their dishes every day.

Tourist Info: 

I highly recommend walking around Colaba in South Mumbai, visiting the Prince of Whales Museum, the Gateway to India, Marine Drive and the Taj Mahal Hotel.  Very few people there speak English, but if you know the landmarks feel free to jump into a rikshaw or a non-air conditioned taxi, they’re very inexpensive and are glad to have the business.  I hired a taxi to take me around for about 7 hours and paid him $15.  That was including tip and he was thrilled to have the business.  The Elephanta Caves are also spectacular, but you’ll need to take a ferry from the gateway to get there. 

If you can see past the poverty, and don’t mind the smells and crazy traffic, Mumbai is an incredible place to visit.  Definitely unlike anywhere I’ve ever been.  I look forward to my next visit.

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Jewish Info:

There are many synagogues in Mumbai and the Jews have a rich history of over 2000 years in India. I highly recommend finding an Indian Jew who speaks English or Hebrew and having them give you the tour. I met Elkanah Shaparkur at the Magen David Synagogue and he was glad to bring me around and show me the various places.

Contributed by: Daniel Hofbauer | Last Date of Travel: November 2010

Kosher Info:
The only kosher restaurant in Nepal is by the Chabad of Kathmandu (contact info below). They serve from late morning until the evening and the food is good. You can also cook yourself and just pay for ingredients. I was pleasantly surprised to find some kosher (OU certified) items such as Walkers Shortbread biscuits and Nature Valley granola bars in the supermarket.

Most people come to Nepal for the unbeatable trekking in the Himalayas. The most popular treks, Annapurna Circuit and Everest Base Camp take at least 10 days and potentially as long as 3 weeks. This brings unique challenges for the kosher traveler.

What to bring? Pretty much the same as any trek. A lightweight pot(s), a set (per person) of plastic traveling cutlery, bowl, cup & plate, brush to wash up with and a backpacking portable stove (the gas canister you can get in Kathmandu in one of the many trekking equipment stores). In terms of food, my main supplies were Quaker Instant Oatmeal (1 or 2 packets make a great breakfast), Osem Manot Chamot (instant meals like couscous, rice etc), granola / energy bars, loaf of bread (lasted me a week), crackers, peanut butter and more. For Shabbat on the trek, I recommend matzah (to make Kiddush/Hamotzi on) and, for a taste of meat, some kabanas which supposedly keep for a couple of weeks.

When arriving at a village at the end of the trekking day, after checking out a lodge’s room, I would explain that I need to cook myself as I am a religious Jew and ask if this would be ok. Most places were fine with this, but some weren’t, in which case you move on to the next lodge. There is an unofficial “Israeli deal” (on the Annapurna Circuit trek at least) whereby Israelis try and get their room for free and pay for meals (where the lodge makes most of their money). I decided not to haggle and simply pay for lodging as I would need the lodge owner’s cooperation on the cooking front and they would be making less money from me, a kosher traveler.

For dinner I would either prepare an Osem instant meal or buy ingredients from the lodge. Given that dahl baht (rice and lentils) is the main stable in Nepal, you will find yourself eating a lot of rice. Bugs are very common so one needs to check the rice carefully. To avoid bishul akum while using the lodge’s stove, one needs to be involved in the process by either lighting the stove or mixing the rice intermittently, etc. (ask your local Rabbi if you prefer). I was warned by another kosher traveler to be respectful in their kitchen, as its their own private space they are letting you into. The kitchen can get hectic at meal time, so you may want to cook early before the rush. I recommend taking a camping stove – this way you are not dependent on anyone and have the option to cook in your room or outside, whatever and whenever you want. Also, with an instant meal you don’t have to spend the time checking rice – it may be the last thing you want to do after hiking 7 hours.

Tourist Info:
If you are traveling kosher and going on a trek for longer than a few days, I really recommend taking a porter. If it wasn’t for the food I wouldn’t have taken one but with 2 weeks of supplies, you can easily get to 20kg. Also, the trail isn’t always clear and a porter with experience will know exactly which way to turn. If you want to spend more, you can hire a porter-guide or certified guide. I arranged my porter, Nyma, through Swissa (see below) and he was great. Swissa knows all about kosher and Shabbat and can educate your porter before you leave. Having said that, Nyma would offer me some of his food every day so not sure if he quite got it…

People recommended me to spend time in Kathmandu. Leave a cushion after your trek before your flight out and aim to spend 2-3 days in Kathmandu. But no need to spend too much time there – can get some good bargains there, but there are a lot of temples (read: avodah zara), and annoying street salespeople. Pokhera is meant to be nice and have a relaxed atmoshpere.

Swissa is the agency most of the Israelis use. They are really helpful, know their stuff and have the best prices (even for converting $ to Nepalese Rupees).

For buying or renting trekking gear, there are loads of stores in Thamel. I used Everest Trekking Store. The guy there gives special prices to Israelis (so brush up on your Hebrew) and speaks the lingo a bit (mechir tov…sababa egozim). Its hard to explain where he is but ask Swissa or call the store (+1 444 3708).

There is an international standard clinic/hospital in Kathmandu. Hopefully you won’t need but its good to know about it – CIWEC Travel Medical Center+977 1 442 4111 (opposite British Embassy, 5 mins cab from Thamel).

>> Other Tips….

If you do the Annapurna Circuit, you need a rest day for acclimatization at Manang. If you leave for the trek on Sunday, you can get to Manang by Friday and then rest on the real rest day.

For reading up before, besides Lonely Planet and Lametayel (for Hebrew speakers), Rob’s Nepal site has tips at the bottom of the page which are a great resource.

Make to sure to start vaccinations at least 3-4 weeks before travel and if flying via India, also sort out your visa early. I decided on my trip 3 weeks before and it was borderline. Visa for Nepal you get at the airport but you need passport pics. You can download the form ahead of time to beat the queue.

You can ask the agency you are using to get you TIMS and permit ahead of time for a small fee.

Make sure to have warm clothing (it is freezing up high) and the whole suite of medicines recommended (in the Lonely Planet book or wherever). Also, double check your travel insurance covers helicopter evacuation from the trek (just in case…you don’t want to be stuck with a $3,000 bill).

For places to stay in Kathmandu or Pokhara, check out TripAdvisor’s most recommended or if you are on a tight budget, ask people in Chabad for recommendations (you can pay as little as 300 NPR a night in Kathmandu…that’s $4)

Haggle…negotiate…hundel… – however you call it, do it….in most places.

Jewish Info:
The Chabad house is spacious and welcoming. They have meals & services on Shabbat and a restaurant during the week with a good choice including meat. Their Seder on Pesach is apparently the place to be in Asia. They have a good library of Jewish, Israeli and travel books as well as a collection of tips on Nepal and surrounding countries left by travelers. There are also classes during the week.

Chabad of Kathmandu: Rabbi Chezki & Chanie Lifshitz. Tel: (+977 1) 4701886 Mobile: (+977) 9803241294 Email: chabadnepal@hotmail.com. It is located in the Thamel area, opposite the Marshyangdi Hotel.

Contributed by: Elina Rokhkind | Last Date of Travel: October 2009

Kosher Info:

There are three sources of kosher food in Florence, all of them located in close proximity to the synagogue.

The first is the dairy vegetarian Ristorante Ruth. Since it’s the only sit-down place, you get to meet here all kosher tourists visiting Florence at the time. The menu is not too extensive and rather eclectic, as is the restaurant’s décor. The food itself is decent, but not overly sophisticated; the house wine is pretty good. You can order here fish, pasta and vegetable dishes, as well as soups, pizza, and deserts. The restaurant’s owner, Simcha, is a very friendly and interesting man, who personally serves and gets to know his customers.

Then, there is a small store – Kosher Market, which sells packaged goods and wine, as well as a selection of imported frozen products, so they can prepare pizza or schwarma for you on the spot. They can also serve tea and instant coffee, and there are a few tables to sit while grabbing a bite. The frozen food is not great and overpriced, compared to the US. On the bright side, they sell some local cheeses and deli meats, which are delicious, and a good value too. Order a sandwich to take with you for the day of touring, and pair it with some delectable fresh Italian produce; then come back in the evening for a sit-down meal in the restaurant – this is a good plan in the kosher-limited Florence.

The third place – Chabbad of Florence – was always locked when we passed by, so you probably need to make the arrangements in advance.

Tourist Info:

We fell for the charm of Florence in an instant. This amazingly beautiful city surrounded by picturesque Tuscany hills exudes harmony and has a healthy dose of everything. Being the cradle of Renaissance, Florence is loaded with historical sites and grand art, yet the tourist crowds are manageable. For a modern cosmopolitan city with vibrant economic and cultural life, Florence is moderately-paced as Florentines prefer enjoying Dolce Vita to hectic lifestyles. The historical center is quite compact, which allows exploring it entirely on foot.

The heart of Florence is the Piazza del Duomo, where the famous Gothic Cathedral (known as Duomo) with its beautiful multi-colored facade is located. The Cathedral’s enormous red dome, renowned for being the first free-standing dome of its size since antiquity, is seen from everywhere around the city. Next to the Duomo is the Campanile (bell tower), which you can climb (all 414 steps of it) for the breathtaking views of the city and surrounding countryside. The architectural trio of the Piazza is completed with the Baptistery – the oldest Florentine building from the 11th century.

The powerful Medici family that ruled Florence during the Renaissance times was instrumental in beautifying the city, and lots of magnificent art pieces used to stand under the open sky. Nowadays, however, most of them are sheltered inside the numerous museums, and their place in the streets is taken by skillfully made copies. One couple we met during our travels was convinced they saw David’s Michelangelo a while ago in front of the Palazzo Vecchio (the old Town Hall). This was indeed the historical place of the famous symbol of Renaissance, but since 19th century David’s home is under the specially designed dome in the Accademia art gallery.

As it was said, the art is abundant and museums and palaces are plentiful in Florence – schedule carefully what you wish to visit. During our trip we managed to see the above mentioned Accademia (where aside from David you can find several more sculptures of Michelangelo), Palazzo Medici-Riccardi (early Medici residence, most famous for its frescoed private chapel), the immense and luxurious Palazzo Pitti (later Medici residence, complete with beautiful gardens and more art), and the free Palazzo Davanzati (a restored medieval house where you can glimpse into the life well before food-processors and modern bathrooms, and be surprised how ingenious people had been). And of course the Uffizzi – one of the most prominent Europe’s galleries – is an art-lover’s absolute must! Indeed, this surprisingly manageable museum housing the best Renaissance art in addition to classical sculptures, have the highest concentration of masterpieces per square foot we’ve ever encountered. In order not to stand in line for hours, it is highly recommended to use their advance reservation system.

Aside from enjoying its art and architecture, Florence is just a picture-perfect place to stroll. Admire the big castle-like Palazzo Vecchio, and imagine the tumultuous past unfolding on the Piazza della Signoria in front of it. Take a buggy ride on the cobblestones of the city center, or ride a carousel in the dusk on Piazza della Repubblica accompanied by the lively tunes of street musicians. Drop by the San Lorenzo market with its rows of bargain-priced leather goods, and get amazed by the abundance and variety of produce, and design of food shops at the nearby Mercato Centrale. Cross the romantic Ponte Vecchio– the oldest Florentine bridge spared by the Nazi during their retreat, and take a walk down the Oltrarno neighborhood’s winding streets among ancient buildings and artisan shops. Take a mini-hike to Piazzale Michelangelo for some amazing city views from the top of the hill. Finally, peep inside the big-name boutiques in this fashion-conscious city, and have a look at other interesting shopping options like a 600-year-old perfumery.

Although, we did not have time for it, we read the trips to the nearby Tuscan hill towns, such as San Gimignano, are really lovely. Other day trip options from Florence are to the interesting cities of Pisa, Siena or Lucca.

Jewish Info:

The imposing Great Synagogue of Florence with its green dome distinctive on the Florentine skyline of red-tiled roofs, was built in Moorish style in the end of 19th century. The grand and beautiful building is, unfortunately, mostly empty as minyan gathers for morning services only 3 times a week. The synagogue houses a small museum, and organizes guided tours of its inside, providing some background on the Jewish history in Florence.

Unless you hire a private guide knowledgeable about the Florentine Jewish history and sites significant to it, there is nothing explicitly Jewish to see in Florence. The Ghetto, formerly located on the place of the present Piazza della Repubblica, was completely destroyed in 19th century. Giovanna Bossi specializes in Jewish Florence tours, but we ended up not using her services, which I partially regret. Please refer to Jewish Italy website for relevant contact info.

Contributed by: Dani Klein | Last Date of Visit: November 2009

Kosher Info: Buenos Aires (a.k.a. BsAs) has the largest Jewish community in Latin America, so it is not shocking that we found plenty of kosher food throughout the city. Argentina is known the world over for their meat, kosher and non-kosher, and the rumors are true … Argentinian meat is amazing. Compared with American beef, Argentinian cattle are not fed corn, but rather grass which is what they should be eating, making for better meat.

Whilst spending a week in Buenos Aires, my wife and I got to experience some of the amazing culinary delights that Buenos Aires has to offer the kosher traveler. Before diving into the tasty treats that BsAs has to offer, it is important to note the late night eating out atmosphere that permeates the culture of the city. Most of the kosher restaurants are open relatively late, especially compared to wherever you’re from … even New York. Basically anything kosher in Argentina is covered by the Ajdut Kosher supervision, run by Rabino (Rabbi) Daniel Oppenheimer, who we had the pleasure of meeting. Rabbi Oppenheimer also helped us find accommodations for Shabbat.

There was one restaurant that we ate at twice, since it was by far the best (and most expensive – but nothing compared to what it would’ve cost in NY!): ASIAN Grill Fusion Steak House located in the Palermo neighborhood. First of all, the restaurant is beautiful and modern. When you are seated they give you a shot, typically fresh fruit juices mixed with vodka. Both nights we went the shots were delicious! From there, the freshly made dips and breads were amazing, and the eclectic options on the menu tantalized our eyes and palates. Back to back evenings we enjoyed 2 different sweet bread appetizers. While most people think that sweet breads are cow brains, they are actually glands in the cow’s neck. Both appetizers were amazing, and so different from what we’re used to.
The steaks at Asian were unbelievable! Massive, juicy, delicious steaks rival any I’ve ever had. They were savory, tasty and so big that I couldn’t finish either of them in one sitting. I definitely recommend visiting Asian. It is a great place for a date or just an amazing evening! Address: Cordoba 5288 Tel: 4116-5507/3399

Other places that we ate at were also really good. One evening we tried out El Galope in the Once neighborhood (the heart of the industrial garment district, where there are many Jewish businesses and restaurants). Be aware of your surroundings in this neighborhood in the evening. This restaurant is reviewed by Frommer’s travel guides. It is described as the epitome of an Argentine parrilla (steak house), with Middle Eastern flavors. We were forewarned that the service in the restaurant is awful, and it was, but the food and prices were well worth it. Our steaks were thick and juicy (although not as tasty as Asian’s steaks). The papas fritas (French Fries) were good, but did not come with ketchup. In fact, the restaurant didn’t even carry ketchup at all! Address: Tucumán 2637 Tel: 4963-6888

Another favorite was Dashi, a chain of sushi restaurants that has one kosher branch in Palermo Soho. We ordered a mix of sushi rolls and pasta. The salmon roll topped with guacamole was deliciously interesting, and our second roll had mango, salmon, and warm fried cheese which was one of the tastiest rolls of sushi I’ve ever had! Please keep in mind that only the Dashi branch at Salguero 2643 in Palermo Soho is kosher. You will see the “AK” symbol on the window. Tel: 4807-0633

While we ate at a few more places, I don’t want to leave out the Kosher McDonald’s in the Abasto Shopping Mall. We arrived in the mall on Friday after 2pm (Shabbat started after 7pm) and the McDonald’s was already closed, so we tried El Pasaje Express. We had some empanadas, each were filled with different vegetables and cheeses. We didn’t enjoy this as much.

Saturday night we headed back to the mall to have our kosher McDonald’s fix. What we experienced was delicious but very different type of fast food meat. The burgers are fried, not grilled, so the taste is definitely different. Our ‘Double McNifica’ which is basically a double burger with all the veggies, was good, but not as filling as we would’ve hoped. We ordered Chicken McNuggets, which were really good, to help fill us up. Watch our video on the Kosher McDonalds in Buenos Aires on Jewish Travel TV. Address: Abasto Shopping Mall Av. Corrientes 3247 Tel: 4959-5137

For kosher snacks found all over Buenos Aires, you’ll find Freddo Ice Cream. Majority of their flavors are kosher certified by Ajdut Kosher. The kosher flavors will have a “AK” next to them to make it easy for you while ordering. The ice cream is more like a gelatto, something we can’t really find kosher in the U.S. The flavors are more robust and the texture is much thicker than ice cream in North America. It is definitely worth a try.

Here is a near full listing of the eating out options for the kosher traveler in Buenos Aires:

Restaurants

• El Pasaje Address: Pasaje El Lazo 3141/51 Tel: 4806-0084
• El Jaial Address: Tucumán 2620 Tel: 4961-0541
• Kosher D&M Address: Ecuador 594 Tel: 4862-1408
• Lalo Helueni Address: Tucumán 2755 Tel: 4966-1007
• Mama Jacinta Address: Tucumán 2580 tel: 4962-9149 / 7535
• Mediterráneo Address: S. Luis 2902 Tel: 4961-5137
• Mi Parilla Address: Tucumán 2782 Tel: 4963-0415
• Sucath David Address: Tucumán 2349 Tel: 4952-8878
• Eshel Resto Y Cafe Kosher Address: Tucumán 727 Tel: 4393-2442
• Tov Lev Address: Paso 745 Tel: 4962-0857
• Kosher Bistro Address: Malabia 1530 Tel: 4831-8117
• Sushi Go Address: Pueyrredon 2501-L 1009/10
• Terrazas del Bs. As. Design Tel:5777-6110/6108
• Aieka Bartolomé Address: Mitre 4390 Tel: 4982-9662
• Noam Address: Monroe 2715 Tel: 4545-4621
• Tib Tuna Address: Pueyrredón 795 Tel: 6240-3112
• Tucson Address: Salguero 2741 Tel: 4804 – 1600

Pizza / Small Dairy Places

• Pizzería El Pasaje Express Address: Abasto Shopping Mall Corrientes 3247
• Pizzería Romini Address: Tucumán 2802 Tel: 4962-8177 / 5097
• Pizzería Soultani Address: S. Luis 2601 Tel:4961-3913
• Waflemania Address: Tucumán 2783 Tel:4963-8866

Bakeries

• Malena Address: Pueyrredon 880/882 Tel: 4962-6290
• Panadería Roberto Helueni Address: Tucumán 2418 Tel: 4964-3336
• Star Kosher Address: Paso 741 Tel: 4963-9046
• Galil Address: Boulogne Sur Mer 449 Tel: 4864-4960
• Kokush Address: Tucumán 2663 Tel: 4963-9602 / 4966-2227

Ice Cream

• Maichel Address: Paso 789 Tel: 4964-2261
• Malena Address: Pueyrredon 880/882 Tel.4962-6290
• Tuttim Address: S. Luis 2901 corner Ecuador Tel: 4964-3004
• Freddo — found throughout the city

Travel Info:
Buenos Aires is a vast and exciting city, and is referred by many as the “Paris of the South”, although don’t mention that to the locals. The city is a happening metropolis with both expensive, fancy neighborhoods, as well as poor, rundown barrios. Every guide and local we encountered had warned us about specific neighborhoods to avoid, watch out for pickpockets – which apparently are common, and just be aware of our general surroundings at night. In our week spent in BsAs, we thankfully didn’t have any specific issues to worry about.

A few notable things you will notice about the city: Costs, Tango, and Art.

The costs of most things in BsAs are really cheap or really expensive, depending on whether you’re buying something local or imported. For Americans & Europeans, and even Israelis & Australians, your currency will go very far in Argentina, especially for those seeking to live on a shoestring budget.

Tango is played up throughout the city, with numerous theaters or dinner halls hosting nightly shows. From our discussions with the locals, this does not compare to a Broadway show in New York. Tango shows are mainly attended by tourists. While tango is a favorite past time for the city’s residents, the areas where you’ll find the locals dancing, aren’t always the safest.

Between the architecture and numerous art stores and museums, BsAs is an art lovers dream (if only your suitcase can hold all the art you want to buy).

Here are a few neighborhoods worth checking out:

• Recoleta was the neighborhood we resided in for our Buenos Aires stay. It is a relatively fancy urban area with high end apartment buildings and shops like Prada, Ralph Lauren, and comparable local Argentinian brands. There is a famous cemetery in the area (which doesn’t really float my boat), however every Sunday a great artisan flea market is held right outside the cemetery walls. We found some really great local artisan made goods, clothes, and obviously artwork.
  



• Microcentro is the center of the city, Argentina’s financial capital, and also home to many government buildings and famous monuments, notably Plaza de la Independencia & Plaza de Mayo, which is home to the massive Obelisk of BsAs (locally known as Obelisco). Plaza de Mayo lives in the middle of the widest avenue in the world: Avenida 9 de Julio (9th of July Avenue) — try crossing the street in one shot! The 12 lane avenue typically takes pedestrians normally two to three green lights to cross it.

  It is worth mentioning a specific store in this area, “Silvia y Mario“, which is a Jewish owned leather goods store. We met the owners and they gave us a tour of their shop. If you’re into leather goods – jackets, pants, bags, rugs, gloves, belts, wallets, etc., it is definitely worth a visit to this shop!

• Palermo is a nice residential neighborhood filled with coffee shops and shopping. We only spent a few hours in the area, but wish we had stayed for longer.
• Puerto Madero is a beautiful waterfront area with high priced shops and residential towers, some of the most expensive real estate in all of Latin America.

DAY TRIPS from Buenos Aires

Jewish Info:
Although the Jewish population in Buenos Aires is shrinking, it remains the largest Jewish community in Latin America, with over a quarter million Jews.

We spent our Shabbat in Recoleta and found the Chabad house (Bet Jabad) in the neighborhood. Before our stay, we contacted the Chief Rabbi of Argentina, Rabbi Daniel Oppenheimer, who was extremely friendly and helpful and set us up with 2 families for the Shabbat meals. The Jews in BsAs were very friendly and welcoming. Since our Spanish wasn’t too great, and many Jews did not speak English too well either, we conversed in a mix of Hebrew – English – Spanish. The younger generation, however, has a stronger knowledge of the English language.

Belgrano is a wealthier Jewish neighborhood with some restaurants of it’s own. Unfortunately, we did not get a chance to visit the area, but we were told it is very nice.

Another very Jewish neighborhood is Once (pronounced OWN-say), which has many shuls and kosher restaurants. The Jewish Community Center, AMIA, which was bombed by terrorists in 1994, is located in the Once neighborhood, and is heavily guarded. You can request special guided tours of the building, which I do recommend. You’ll be able to learn a lot more about the history of the building, and of Jewish Argentinian history. The one thing you will notice about the Jewish community in Once, in contrast to the Jews in Recoleta & Belgrano, it is poor.

Click here for a Synagogue directory in Buenos Aires.

Here’s a list of Mikvahs in the city:

• Belgrano: “Ajdut Israel” Moldes 2449 Tel: 4784-6719
• Villa del parque/Devoto: “Jabad” Helguera 2329 Tel: 4504-1908 /6785
• Flores: “Khal Jaredim” Bogota 3015. Tel:4612-1050
  “Jabad Flores” Aranguren 925 Tel:4612-5652
• Palermo/Once/Center:
  “Mikve Shoshana” Ecuador 741/743 Tel:4963-8780
  “Yeshurun” J.M.Gutierrez 3976 Tel:4804-7577
• Once: “Instituto Taharut” Larrea 732 Tel: 4962-7047
• Barrio Norte: “Jabad Lubavitch Central” Aguero 1164 Tel: 4963-1221